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| completed bookshelf |
Because the Shanty Sisters already posted their blog on the actual build, I will focus more on what we did differently from them, as well as some of the tools and tips from my experience. You can do a google search for their blog, or as I mentioned earlier just follow them on the social medias & interwebs.
The Home Depot run signals the traditional start to most our projects. I'm sure that's common among you as well. I get to load up Ye Olde Durrango with lumber - it makes a great pine scented air freshener.
I spent around $100 for all of the lumber and the caster wheels (and they were the most expensive part). We upgraded our wheels to a silver, all metal version with no rubber or plastic since this will live on carpet & not our hardwoods. I used 4 2x12's @ 8 ft (cut down to width), 10 2x4's @ stud length (cut to needed size), 4 half inch dowel rods, and 4 caster wheels. For the finishing touch, we used the Strongtie brackets recommended in the Shanty 2 Chic blog, but did a different end piece of the dowel rods.
The project is pretty straight forward. Each shelf is made up of one 2x12 and two 2x4's. You can make any width of bookshelf fits your needs, just cut the 2x4's 3 inches shorter than the 2x12 (which will be the ruling width of your finished piece). We followed the recommended dimensions for both width & height, and it's pretty big. But our ceilings are tall and can handle the height.
Before delving into any project, I always make sure my saws are cutting a square 90 degree angle. To do this, I use my trusty speed square (easy to find at Home Depot) and line it up. I do this every time before starting a project and occasionally during to ensure it hasn't moved. I line up one end of the square along the fence of the saw (the tall part in the 'back'), unlock the miter and then rotate the blade to line up with the other end of the square.
I will trim off the end of each new piece of lumber to ensure it's square before measuring & cutting. I think I have voiced my concern previously about receiving quality products from the lumber mill...
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| everything is cut & sanded (the 1st time) |
The shelves go together using a Kreg Jig. They can be a little overwhelming, but they are suuuuper easy to use. When I picked up mine last year, I practiced on several pieces of wood to get comfortable before putting it to work. A Kreg Jig allows you to securely join two pieces side-by-side using a pocket hole and pocket hole screw. To use it, set the jig and drill bit settings to the depth of the wood you are cutting before clamping the jig to your intended piece of wood and putting your drill bit in your drill.
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| Kreg Jig (blue/grey) is clamped to the work surface & piece of wood) |
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| using the jig drill bit - why it is imperative the jig is secured |
Once I have drilled all of the pocket holes for the shelves, I will attach using Kreg Jig screws. You can use any screw you want, but the key is that they are self tapping, meaning you will not need to pre-drill into the 2nd piece of wood you are joining together, and the screw will bite and fulfill its intended purpose. The Kreg Jig screws have a square bit, which they provide when you buy a jig.
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| note the square drill bit as well as the flat edge on the tip of the 2nd screw, preventing the need to pre-drill on the 2nd piece of wood |
To ensure the edges & joints are flush, I have two tricks - the 1st is a preventative measure to keep the 2nd to a minimum (because it's messy). I use a scrap piece of 1x3 and two clamps to make sure the two pieces I am joining are as flush as possible before I screw them together.
Once I am comfortable that the pieces are as flush as possible, I screw them all together using the bit provided. For this project, I used a 2.5 inch Kreg Jig screw.
Next is the messy part. And the most time consuming. I sand between every step because I want each piece sanded equally, but when I am making shelves, table tops, or benches, and I used more than one piece, I will belt sand to make sure the edges and joints are as even and as flush as possible. The belt sander can really help cover up errors or imperfections (either caused by the wood or by the operator). Everything gets a good belt sanding followed by a double trip under the orbital sander with a mid-grade and a fine-grade sander to give the wood it's best chance at looking amazing.
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| belt sander - dusty |
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| orbital sander - laughs in the face of cleanliness |
Amanda is usually waiting on me by this point - she has her stain ready to go. We'll do a blog on just the stain at some point.... it's really pretty cool. But we're in the home stretch now. Once it is all stained, it's a matter of assembly. Because we knew this beast was going to be pretty heavy and big, we elected to go ahead and assemble in the bedroom. It's just a matter of following instructions here, nothing fancy. We did each end first, then the middle, then the middle of each part - maybe not that way next time as they were progressively harder to get in (since we were securing it all as we went). I maybe would have started at one end and then just worked my way down next time. But you really have to make sure the math is good if you do it that way so that all of your shelves are even (or at least even-ish).
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| top, bottom, & middle done - just need the middles of the middle |
There it is. Done. The Shanty 2 Chic sisters liked our work so much they re-posted my Instagram photo on their (and for one day, I was internet famous).
I received several questions about Amanda's decorating - two of the fans came from Amanda's grandmother's estate (one reportedly nearly took off her brother's finger when they were kids). We took off the cords to ensure none were attempted to be plugged in. The third fan was found a resale shop here in the area. The dresser was from Ashley Furniture, about 8 or 9 years ago, and the glass vase was World Market.
Thanks for reading along. Questions? Comments? Post them here or follow me on instagram - @clay_gambill and Amanda @ezragolightly and follow along in our journey.
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